Archive for the ‘Indonesia’ Category

Yogjakarta

Sunday, June 6th, 2010

In Yogjakarta I spent about three days exploring the city, together with Claudia and David who I had met on the way there. David had been traveling for well over a year and had some great stories from all around the world. Together they plan to travel at least another year; most people I meet are traveling for more than 6 months: it shows 7 weeks is not a very long time :p. In the time that we had in Yogja we visited the main sites which consisted of the center (Malioboro street), the Sultans Palace, the Buddhist temple Borobudur and the Hindu temple Prambanan. Most of the visits were interspersed with locals asking for pictures; and these are not just scool children I’m talking about, also groups of older women and grown up men. Apparently being white is quite an attraction in these parts of Indonesia.

Even though Yogjakarta was a great place with great sights it was also the place where I kind of got fed up with Indonesia. Its not the country, the food or the people per se because I really like all of them. It is the attitude people have towards tourists. Someone – most likely the decadent tourists – must have given them the idea that money grows on trees in the west. Now in a sense it is true that money earned in euros or dollars goes a long way in Indonesia, but it does not mean that we are willing to spend all the money we have there. All this culminates in the fact that tourists are overcharged for everything everywhere! I can understand this for certain things such as Borobudur which realistically is expensive to maintain and letting the tourists *and* locals pay for it would mean that locals could not visit anymore. So tourists pay more: fair enough.

What I do not understand is why I should pay three times as much for an ice cream, or a bottle of water, or a local bus. I’m sitting in the same crappy seat, have the same non-AC’ed sweaty ride and yet I have to pay more then everyone else. And they’re not even official tourist prices.. No, its just that the bus conductor decides that he’ll ask me three times as much. Then later seeing him buy some cigarettes from the pile of money that he just collected from everyone does not make me feel better either. Sure I may be haggle things down, but I have not been able to haggle down to local prices. And trust me – being true to my Dutch heritage ;) – I’m not a bad haggler.

Anyway so much for my rant. I guess its a reality in much of the tropics, though I have had similar complaints from other travelers. Apparently Indonesia is one of the worst places when it comes to ripping off tourists; only the Philippines are worse.

Altogether I still had a good time in Yogjakarta and it was a good place to end my stay in Indonesia. The morning of the 4th I took a plane to Singapore for a change of pace.

See below for the pictures:

Yogjakarta
Click to view album

Gunung Bromo

Monday, May 31st, 2010

Though I am not writing this post from Bromo, I made a separate post for it so that my blog header shows where I’ve been. After my last post I spent a very laid back day in Padangbai, which is where the ferry from Lombok to Bali arrives. The long trip back from the Gilis was very nice as I met some great new people and ran into some I had met before. Good conversations, music and Arak made the long sit quite relaxing actually.

Back in Padangbai I decided not to stay in Bali any longer: I definitely would have liked to spend more time but I don’t want to spend all of my 7 weeks just in Bali. The next day I still had the morning to explore Padangbai, after which I took the night bus to Probolingo, which is right next to the Bromo Volcano. Bus-Ferry-Bus and 10 hours later I arrived there at 7 in the morning. Going for the convenient (i.e. faster) option, I decided to pay bit more and got a ride on the back of a scooter all the way up to Cemoro Lawang – a mountain village on the crater rim of the volcano that surrounds Bromo. The landscape going up is extremely beautiful, very green and dotted with cabbage and potato farms. People seemed quite different up in the mountains compared to the Indonesians I had met so far. They seemed a bit of a mix between Peruvians living high in the mountains (what I know from pictures that is) and desert people. Take a look at the pictures below and see for yourself, for me mainly the facial features and clothes gave me this impression.

That day I already climbed Bromo to see the sulfur clouds coming from its crater and the impressive desert like area surrounding it. For me the most amazing part was to realize that Gunung Bromo and Gunung Batok are two volcano’s in a huge surrounding volcano. Just imagine how it must have been like to see that surrounding volcano to erupt! For a good impression of (more…)

Gili Air

Wednesday, May 26th, 2010

After a little bit of a radio silence, an update from me again. The last few days I’ve tried to do as little as possible, which includes avoiding internet cafes. My last post was from Ubud, where I had great time seeing a bit more of the ‘real’ Bali. I have to admit that Ubud is still quite touristy, but thanks to Charlotte and Karin who I visited there I got to see and hear a bit more of how Balinese people live and think. I had a walk through the rice fields, visited the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, and enjoyed the good food. We also took a day to go to Waterboom, which is basically a water park (swimmingpools, slides, cocktail bars in the water etc :p). We went together with Arnold (the Indonesian guy I had met before), altogether a really fun day!

Going to Waterboom meant going to Kuta by scooter, which was my first experience driving in the crazy Indonesian traffic. Traffic feels fairly safe even though it seems quite chaotic. The next day I kept the scooter and visited two ancient sites close to Ubud (Gunung Gawi and another with a name along the lines of ‘Holy Water temple’, I forget). After a few great evenings of drinks and a closing night in the only ‘club’ of Ubud with Charlotte and Karin it was time to say goodbye. Next stop: Gili Air, which is where I am right now. I did a – not too spectacular – night dive here, but mostly lay in the sun or sat on the veranda practicing the ukulele. I ran into a Dutch girl here: it is funny to realize that I dont really feel like I need to avoid Dutch people as I haven’t been in the Netherlands myself for a while (Dutch people generally avoid other Dutch people while on vacation..). Anyway we did the diving together and checked out some of the restaurants here.

As I’m getting a bit restless because of all the staying in one place I’ll be heading out again tomorrow. I’ll be going to Java, with a stopover in Kuta. I might do a few more dives in the north west of Bali  but then head to Jogjakarta.

I feel I’m writing a lot about what I’m doing and not so much about my impressions of the country and the culture. So in an attempt to write a bit more about that, already a few of my impressions of Indonesia so far:

  • People are very religious in Bali: mainly Hindu (but quite different from Hinduism in India). I am especially impressed with how often people spend time going to the temple, holding ceremonies and especially making offerings. Some women spend the majority of their time making offerings.
  • Indonesians strongly believe in ghosts, much different from how we look at it in the west. Some people even prefer not to be home alone to avoid coming in contact with ghosts.
  • A waiter told me that The Netherlands (Belanda) is a very safe country: not because there are few earthquakes or other problems, but because there are no demons..
  • Aside from Bali, Indonesia is mainly Islamic. The first I came in contact with this was last night, when I was woken by the call for prayer (I think) around 4am. It may also have been a special event given that it is full moon, and the Islams works with a moon calendar. Perhaps someone can tell me more about this?

Sorry, no pictures today: I forgot my cable so I’ll add a few extra next time.

Tulamben and Ubud

Tuesday, May 18th, 2010

A few days later I am now in Ubud, and a PADI Advanced Open Water Diver :) The diving is here is amazing! The water here is 30 degrees celsius, even at 30m depth! Compare that to 16 degrees in California, it makes diving so much more fun! For the Advanced Open Water I had to do 5 adventure dives, which included a little bit of theory but were mainly just fun. I started of with a wreck dive, in which we explored the USS Liberty which was torpedoed by the Japanese a long time ago. We saw a lot off beautiful fish, and there were all sorts of corals. The most memorable moment of that dive was seeing ‘Nemo’ – the clown fish – from Finding Nemo :) The coral that these fish live in is exactly the same as in the movie: with very squishy tendrils, seems like a nice place to live :) In addition to this dive I also did a Underwater Navigation dive, Night Dive, Deep Dive (to 30m)  and finally a dive to practice better buoyancy control.

In these dives I saw to many fish and coral types to name, but a few highlights: during the deep dive we saw the rare Eagle Ray (about 1.5-2m in width). Also we saw a lot of Bumphead fish, which are about 1m long. It was such a great experience to be at 30m depth and to look up to the surface and in the distance to see a group of these huge fish swim buy! Some other fish that we saw: scorpion fish,  stingrays, squids, octopus, cuttlefish and many others!

The place where we stayed was very nice as well (see pictures), and a stone’s throw away from the dive location. The name was Paradise Inn, which seemed very fit given the lush green plants spread throughout and the soothing quiet – which was a great relief after the noisy Kuta streets.

Part of the dive package was that they picked me up and dropped me off wherever I wanted. As I knew that a friend of a friend (Charlotte) was staying in Ubud for her thesis I asked them to drop be off there. Uud is a nice, small,but still very touristic town surrounded by rice fields (sawas). When I arrived I managed t find a very nice yet cheap place, and met up with Charlotte and a friend of hers. They introduced me to the local drink (of which I forgot the name, but its basically palm wine) and we had some good local food. We also ran into another Dutch girl who is traveling around here, so we had a small Dutch get-together :p

Later today I will be doing some exploring to really see what its like here, Ive already spent way too much time in this internet cafe..

For pictures see below:

Tulamben & Ubud
Click to view album

Bali

Saturday, May 15th, 2010

Last Friday I safely arrived in Bali after a not-so-bad flight via Hong Kong. In the past I’ve read a lot of other peple’s travels blogs so I feel I am falling into clichés, but it seems I’ve been here for ages already though its only been 48 hours!

When I arrived on Friday and finally managed to get my visa after standing in line for 1.5 hour I walked into the hot, humid Bali air. Hoping not to come over as a ‘stupid’ tourist I had prepared myself a bit in the airplane by learning the numbers from 1 to 10 and the tenfolds in Bahasa Indonesia. It seemed to have helped at least a bit because I managed to go from the starting price of 25 USD down to ‘lima puluh ribu’, which is about 5USD.

On the way to the centre of Kuta – where I had planned to find a place to stay – I was overwhelmed with how different it is here to anything I’ve seen before.  It always smells of something, mainly food, but also things like incense. Then there is the temperature:  during the day pretty much always over 30 degrees celsius. But mainly its just how things ‘are’: the roads, all the scooters, the  people, the entire atmosphere. I guess it shows that I have never been to Asia before ;)

Yesterday I walked around a bit to explore the area; around noon I ended up in the A/C’ed M-minimart where I took a short break to get some water. Here I ran into Arnold: an Indonesian guy from Padang, Sumatra. He was sitting there being bored and browsing the web a bit (as there was free wifi in the minimart). We ended up talking a bit and we decided that since he was bored, and I didnt have anything in particular planned that we should hang out together. Arnold had worked in Bali before (he graduated from Tourism school in Sumatra), but had come back now to look for a job again. As his sister had a house on Bali he was staying there while she was away. We spent the day racing around Kuta, Legian and Seminyak on his scooter and had lunch in a nice local restaurant that he knew. He also showed me his (or actually his sister’s) place, and introduced me to his neighbor where we spent some time talking.

On the way back to Kuta I had an unfortunate incident: after we had stopped to get some petrol, I got back on the scooter a bit too careless and tore my pants open from top to bottom :D In the words of Arnold: it was a good things that I was wearing underpants ;) Luckily they sell shorts on literally every street corner, and so the problem was quickly solved. This was alos when it started raining, so our plan to go to the beach changed to visiting Discovery Mall, where we had dinner. Finally the day came to an end after a good night of bar hopping and clubbing with Arnold and his friends :)

Perhaps this explains a bit why it seems like I’ve been here so long: a lot of experiences in a very little time :) Altoghether I am really enjoying myself! Tomorrow I will start my PADI Advanced diving course with Aquamarine Diving (Thanks for the referral Laurent!)

Below some pictures:

Kuta, Bali
Click to view album

ps. I love this place: I just spent an hour on the internet for about 90 cents :)